An important question to you,
but perhaps not the most important agenda for the shampoo manufacturers.
Convincing the public that their shampoos will make your hair shiny and
give you the ‘Hollywood’ look sells shampoo, toxicity does not. Hair shampoo
is big business and everyone is always using some sort of gimmick and
a lot of clever marketing to lure users. Unbelievable claims and mysterious
ingredients stems from the basic dilemma faced by shampoo manufacturers:
How to convince the general public that a simple hair-cleaning product
is also a magical lotion that can beautify you and increase your sex appeal?
What is the newest "miracle" ingredient? Bark from Peru or some exotic
extract? Shampoos do not feed, resuscitate, enliven or revive hair. They
can't, for the simple reason that hair is not alive. So what can shampoos
do? They can clean hair, all that is required is removal of the thin layer
of oily material known as sebum that coats and protects the hair. Unfortunately,
sebum also acts as a virtual magnet for dirt and residue from hair treatment
products.
Common to most synthetic chemical shampoos is an ingredient called a
surfactant, that is the same used in your washing-up liquid, and it has
the ability to reduce surface tension of water so that a droplet of water
will spread out rather than stay in the raised dome shape, i.e. it makes
water wet. Other surfactants are repelled by water, but show great attraction
for oily substances. The result is that as the hair is rinsed, the soiled
sebum is washed away.
Lathering of a shampoo is the main activity of surfactants. Foam is nothing
more than dispersion of a gas, in this case air, in a liquid. But there
is no clear link between a surfactant's ability to clean and to produce
foam. Indeed, a very effective shampoo that does not lather well can be
formulated. But would you buy one? Somehow, in consumers' minds, suds
and cleaning go together. So most shampoo manufactures incorporate surfactants
with strong lathering properties although they may not be ideal in terms
of conditioning or irritant potential.
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS): Sodium Laureth Sulphate
(SLES): Ammonium Lauryl Sulphate (ALS), and more.
Most regular shampoos and most of the "natural" shampoo you see advertised
will contain one of these chemical additives as one of its top ingredients:
Also DEA or Diethanolamine and Propylene Glycol. These compounds are used
as detergents, surfactants, and foaming agents and can be found in almost
any kind of industrial cleaning product. They are also widely used as
major ingredients in cosmetics, hair conditioners, toothpaste and shampoos.
There has been a lot of industry publicity about the safety of SLS, SLES,
and ALS. Here are the facts from several sources
including the "Alert Bulletin: by the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review),
the expert panel used by the CTFA (Cosmetics, Toiletries, & Fragrance
Association):
Skin & Eye Irritant - "The Panel wishes to point
out that these two ingredients (SLS & ALS) produce eye and/or skin
irritation in experimental animals and in some human test subjects ...."
The panel then quotes from the 1983 JACT report ("Final Report on the
Safety Assessment of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate", Journal of the American College
of Toxicology, Vol. 2 #7, 1983)..."the longer the ingredients stay in
contact with the skin, the greater the likelihood of irritation, which
may or may not be evident to the user ... (SLS).... causes severe
epidermal changes to the area of the skin of mice to which it was applied.
The two problems - possible hair loss -- along with proven irritancy should
be considered in the formulation of cosmetic products. "SLS is rapidly
absorbed and retained in the eyes, brain, heart, and liver, which may
result in harmful long-term effects. SLS could retard healing, cause cataracts
in adults, and keep children’s eyes from developing properly. In fact,
studies have shown that washing your hair one time with a shampoo containing
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate could put as many nitrates into your bloodstream
as eating a whole pound of bacon. And that is just ONE application. SLES
is "Contaminated with a very potent carcinogen Dioxane, and is very easily
absorbed through the skin", states Dr. Epstein. SLES is the alcohol form
(ethoxylated) of SLS. It is slightly less irritating than SLS, but may
cause more drying. Both SLS and SLES may cause potentially carcinogenic
formations of nitrates and dioxins to form in shampoos and cleansers by
reacting with other product ingredients.
Ulcers and More - Another research paper shows
that SLS has protein-denaturing properties, causing skin to separate
and become inflamed. ("Denaturation of Epidermal Keratin by Surface Active
Agents", Journal Invest Dermatology, 32-81; 1959. It is this property
that may leave mucous membranes in the mouth open to microscopic damage.
SLS has been shown to contribute to mouth and gastrointestinal ulcers
("Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and recurrent aphthous ulcers- a Preliminary
Study" - ACTA Odontol Scan, 52, 1994: pp 257-259 and "The Effect of Sodium
Lauryl Sulfate on Recurrent Aphthous Ulcers").
Shampoos contain far more components than surfactants. There are usually
other synthetic chemicals used as preservatives, emulsifiers, thickeners,
and colour additives, foam boosters. In some cases, a residue may accumulate,
referred to in the trade as "build-up”. This has resulted in introduction
of specialty shampoos claiming to eliminate the social horror of limp,
sticky and dull hair.
Ideally, a shampoo should smooth down the cuticle. This is achieved by
the inclusion of other ingredients such as Glycerol or Propylene glycol,
which are also used as the active ingredients in antifreeze for radiators.
Propylene glycol [PG] is also used as a solvent in acrylics, stains,
inks and dyes, and in cellophane and brake fluid. Propylene glycol can
penetrate into the skin and cause liver abnormalities and kidney damage
according to Material Safety Data Sheets. PG can have an anaesthetic effect.
Other side effects on animals exposed to PG include heart arrhythmia,
stunted growth, decreased blood pressure, and even death. Propylene glycol
is a highly toxic substance and is a cause of a significant number of
reactions and a primary irritant to the skin even in low levels of concentrations.
Some of its adverse effects include dermatitis, kidney and liver abnormalities
and it has been shown to inhibit skin cell growth and damage cell membranes
causing rashes, dry skin and surface damage to the skin.
Because of the many unhealthy side effects of the chemical shampoos a
number of companies realized that "natural" had a good ring to it and
it has become a buzzword used by the companies trying to exploit the niche
market of natural products. ‘Natural’ implies wholesomeness and
environmental friendliness. Yet, major companies anxious to tap into the
natural products market are now scrambling to produce "natural" shampoos,
hair dyes, and skincare products. These so-called "natural" products are
primarily composed of synthetic chemicals mixed with some natural ingredients.
The result is that many shampoos, including "natural" shampoos, sold
today, are potentially harmful to the body, skin, and hair. Your best
chances of protecting yourself today are to educate yourself about the
products you use, to keep informed, and especially to READ LABELS
and ingredient lists. Play it safe.
You may now wonder what to do about washing your own and the family’s
hair in future. We have the answer: Use the new Zest Hair
Shampoo, truly free of synthetic chemicals, made entirely from
selected botanical oils, extracts and essences. It has taken a long time
for us to get the product to our liking. Initially producing a shampoo
that could lather reasonably well was a problem, but it has been solved
and we think you’ll be delighted with the result. No more exposure to
harsh chemicals and possible carcinogenic and toxic materials, yet squeaky-clean
hair can be yours from now onwards.
Zest's truly natural shampoo is concentrated, so you use much
less and save money. |